longstudio

by Irish Typepad

A Solid Wood Floor or Laminate Flooring: A New Insight

Laminate flooring is fantastic if you are looking for a wood effect floor on a budget. The best value for money laminate flooring is Krono collection, The Krono collection comes in a range of oak colours and 4 different effects. It comes as an easy click lock installation system so even if you don’t have a degree in construction to be able to fit it. You can also buy quickstep laminate flooring. The quickstep laminate flooring system was designed for a closer fit between the panels. Finally there is aqua step laminate floors this flooring system is waterproof so no more nasty raised planks due to large spillages. The aqua step laminate flooring is especially handy for bathrooms, kitchens and utility rooms. Laminate flooring is very easy to clean and maintain. It only needs a sweep and a mop every so often and if you really want to make your laminate floor shine you could even give it a polish. Laminate does have a downside and that is that it doesn’t last as long as a solid wood floor. Remember that when you are choosing your laminate you should find one appropriate for the area. For example if you are laying your laminate in the hallway then you should pick a laminate that is suitable for high traffic areas.

Real wood flooring is the kind of flooring that will transform your room. It will add style to your room scheme and will create warmth in the room. Of course solid wood flooring is more expensive than laminate but you can see the quality of the solid wood flooring compared to laminate. Solid wood flooring is available in hundreds of different colours and styles. You can get real wood floors from pretty much any tree you like. These colours range from the darkest aged oak to the lightest pine. These colours can be adjusted and changed to suit your style with different finishes. These finishes include oiled, no-oiled, lacquered, brushed and even smoked. The choice of finish can make your floor look completely different so be sure to choose wisely. Solid wood floors require some maintenance. It should be cleaned regularly as per the manufacturer’s instructions and should be cleaned with a specialist solid wood floor cleaner. A solid wood floor should also be re-finished every few years or so too. If you do not maintain your solid wood flooring then it will not last to its full lifespan. By ensuring that it is well looked after will mean it won’t need replacing and therefore a more cost effective choice.

So now you have a better knowledge of solid wood flooring and laminate wood flooring hopefully your choice will be a little bit easier. Remember that investing in a quality solid wood floor can sometimes be cheaper if it lasts a lifetime.

Find More Solid Wood Flooring Articles

by timber_floors

Caring for Your Solid Oak Hardwood Floor

There are many kinds of hardwood floor, but only oak hardwood floor offers a look of sophistication and class at a price that is affordable. Oak hardwood floor gives a warm, cosy feeling to any home or office, feels great on bare feet, smells wonderful, and lasts for years.

Oak hardwood floor works in any home. There is a belief that still persists that it is only appropriate if your home is a dark Victorian style home or a country farmhouse. This simply isn’t true, if it ever was. Any style of home, no matter if it’s a condo or a ranch style home in the suburbs, can benefit from the amazing look and warmth that comes from having an oak floor.

There have been advances in hardwood flooring and many people prefer the advances because of how easy it is to care for and install, but truthfully, solid oak hardwood floor is easy to care for. Laminate and vinyl flooring that looks like solid wood can never take the place of real wood flooring and cannot capture the timeless, natural beauty that is provided by natural wood.

Solid oak hardwood floor is no longer a luxury that only a few people can afford. There is a wide range of quality oak floors that covers a wide range of prices, making this kind of flooring affordable for anyone with any kind of budget. Real oak floors will go with any type of furniture, and can actually make rooms appear larger.

When you install a solid oak hardwood floor, you get a floor that has amazing wear resistance and durability. As long as you care for your floor properly, it will last for many years. However, you have to be aware that oak floors are susceptible to scratches and dents over time. This makes them not as good for high traffic areas, such as hallways, that do not have rugs. To help prevent this sort of damage, simply add felt pads to the feet of furniture and add rugs to high traffic areas.

To keep your oak floor clean, you just have to vacuum or sweep it. You can use wood polish on your floor to keep it looking great and to help protect it from scratches and spills. If there is a spill, you can simply wipe it up. It is much easier to clean spills on oak floors than it is on carpet, and most of the time you don’t even have to worry about any kind of staining. The most important thing is the polish and protecting your floor from scratches made from furniture when you move it.

A solid oak hardwood floor is a wonderful addition to any home. You’ll love the look and love how easy it is to care for year after year.

Solid Oak wood Flooring, Fitted in a two Bed Apartment in Bristol

by Joost J. Bakker IJmuiden

The Solid Oak Wood Flooring – Attractive, Striking and Durable

Hardwood flooring is anything that is not new to the people as this type of flooring has been in use for centuries. Wood floors are available in wide ranges and all of them have their own beauty and characteristics. Each type is unique in its qualities and features and solid oak wood flooring is also one of the types of hardwood floors. Oak wood floors are considered as popular flooring options because when it comes to buy the flooring that is eye-catching as well as durable then many people go for the solid oak wood flooring. This flooring can surely make just the excellent choice as it is quite hard plus it also works well in the high traffic areas. However, let us tell you some important things that you need to know before you buy the oak wood floor.

Why to consider an engineered hardwood floor?

One may still have the striking hardwood warmth and beauty with the engineered flooring. The process of manufacturing that type of floor is that the manufacturers bond a number of layers of wood under high pressure.

The engineered flooring would offer you the warmth; appeal and charm of hardwood as it consists of several plies of wood bonded in a sequence to get the strong piece of floor.

There are lots of benefits that you can enjoy after installing the engineered oak flooring in your home. So let us discuss a few of them.

One of the main advantages for a man who buys the oak wood flooring is that it offers the consumers an affordable price and this makes it an ideal option for a person who is concerned about the price issue.

Straightforward installation is another merit of the oak wood flooring. You can find the planks in a number of sizes, which are interlocking and are very helpful in installing the floor.

When you prefer the high quality oak wood flooring that is of high quality then you may avail the benefit of solid and appealing look.

Another feature of the oak wood floor is that it offers stability and also shows resistance in different temperatures and humidity.

Besides lots of benefits the engineered solid oak wood flooring also has a few drawbacks as well. It can be easily spoiled by scratches that can harm its finishing, as such floorboards are plywood they do not have the real stability coupled with the hardiness of oak wood flooring.

More Solid Oak Wood Flooring Articles

by Lawrence Sinclair

Top Names and Solid Distributors of Used Diesel Generators

Top Names and Solid Distributors of Used Diesel Generators

It is no secret that some manufacturers of diesel generators are better known than others. Hyundai diesel generators may draw more people’s attention because Hyundai is famous for its high quality automobiles. This may give it a leg up over companies such as Cat, Cummins, or Waukesha to the average consumer. Yet, to “look down” on some of these other companies when seeking used diesel generators may not be the wisest move. The reason for this is that all the names in the world of diesel generators have something to offer. If they did not possess value, they would have disappeared from the competition landscape a long time ago. Keep that in mind when you come across a name you might not have initially heard of.

Here is another point to think of when seeking used diesel generators. If a company such as Hyundai made a strong name for itself in the automobile market, perhaps this would have zero bearing on its ability to produce diesel generators. Again, Hyundai is a car company, correct?

Such logic is known as circular reasoning. How good or bad a particular automobile that Hyundai produces may be, the fact remains that the quality of the diesel generators must stand on its own. Also, Hyundai is a multibillion-dollar global corporation. It is involved in all manner of manufacturing. It is doubtful that it would produce generators that are of low value. Conversely, this does not automatically give Hyundai a leg up (so to speak) over any other manufacturer of diesel generators.

The bottom line here is that a particular brand of diesel generator must stand or fall on its own merits. Generally, if the model is from a name brand and the particular model is well reviewed then the odds are strong it is a model well worth considering purchasing.
Granted, we are talking about used diesel generators and not new ones. That means the name brand of the generator will only be as good as its condition. Those that are purchasing used diesel generators are advised to inspect its condition prior to making a purchase. Of course, if you are purchasing online you may discover that inspections are not possible. So, you will need to take an alternate route. You will need to purchase from a reliable seller of used diesel generators that is known for offering top models. And that would be models produced by all manner of name brands.

This can create somewhat of a quandary because even a solidly well-reviewed model of diesel generator will be of little value if it is in poor condition. This is the prime reason why you need to stick with those sellers that are known for quality. A good reputation is not easy to develop. Those distributors of used diesel generators that have such a solid reputation should never be overlooked.

Consumers purchase a diesel generator because they have a serious need for one. That is why it is necessary to be sure you acquire the best used diesel generators available.

More Diesel Generators Articles

by timber_floors

Solid Wood Flooring in the Home

A solid wood floor can add warm tones and a stunning finish to any room. Constructed with pieces of solid wood they have tongue and groove sides so they can be easily connected together. Each piece has a different grain which combines to form a unique look whenever it is used. There is a huge variety of solid wood floors available with many types of wood species, colours and widths available at hardwood flooring suppliers.

The most popular option is oak wood flooring. Europe and America are both the main consumer and producer of this type of hardwood flooring. Oak is available in various types including red, white and European oak, each with their own hardness, grain and colour characteristics.

A cherry wood floor is another popular choice due to its striking grain markings and solid composition. Like other wood floors it is highly resistant to damage. Over time cherry wood flooring darkens from a pale pink colour to warm dark red tone

Exotic hardwoods can give a room a unique look are now readily available at major hardwood flooring suppliers. They can be found for sale alongside other classic real wood flooring such as maple, oak and ash. Real wood flooring can be purchased in pre-finished or unfinished styles. When laying unfinished wood flooring the product can be recoated many times to increase its life and make it last considerably longer than other flooring options.

When laying solid wood floors, begin with a flat, dry and solid sub floor such as concrete, wood or cork. Carpet is not suitable as a sub base and must be removed. Any deviations in level should be rectified with suitable floor filler. A plastic barrier to stop moisture is recommended for floors that are being installed on concrete or in damp areas. Harwood flooring should also be allowed time to acclimatise before it is set down by leaving it the room for several days. For a bathroom wood floor contact you local flooring supplier for suitable product support.

If you are using a wood floor sub base the solid wood floor should be installed at right angles to the original floorboards to aid strength and stability. An expansion area around the perimeter of the room is also recommended to allow for contractions and expansions throughout the winter and summer months. This expansion gap can be covered with skirting boards or a cover strip.

Solid wood floors are tough and hard wearing and by taking care of them their life can be prolonged. Keep gravel, dirt and grit at bay by using a doormat outside and inside the front door. Regular sweeping and vacuuming will take care of any dirt that does settle on the floor and will reduce scratches and everyday wear and tear. Avoid wearing stiletto heels on solid wood floors and if possible only wear indoor shoes or slippers on its surface.

Nothing comes close to the finish that can be achieved with a solid wood floor. By installing solid wood flooring the value of a home often increases and it can give a home the edge over similar property on the market. Solid wood floors are stain resistant and do not trap dust so are especially good for allergy sufferers. There is a wide range of tones, styles and prices on the market so whether you are looking for a cheap wood floor or the ultimate in hardwood flooring, you are sure to find the right match for your room.

by cborresen

The difference between solid wood flooring and engineered wood flooring

On first inspection there isn’t any great aesthetic difference between solid wood and engineered wood flooring. However before you rush out and opt for the cheapest wood floor there are a few pros and cons to weigh up for both engineered and solid wood floors.

Construction

Solid wood flooring is milled from the tree to give a solid wood plank which has an uninterrupted wood grain and is solely constructed of one solid section of wood. They are mostly constructed with a tongue and groove format.

Engineered wood floors consist of a top layer of natural hardwood which is stuck to a cross layered section of natural soft or hard wood known as ply wood. The cross layering of the ply enables the plank to be more stable due to the glue used so that when the wood expands width ways the different angles reduce the amount of expansion.

Durability

Solid wood flooring is more durable than engineered as it gains its strength from being one solid piece of wood and can be re-sanded and refinished with different waxes, stains or oils more times then engineered. Though the life of any floor does depend on how well it is looked after with recommended care products.

Engineered wood flooring is still very durable and can only be re-sanded five times as the top hardwood layer cannot withstand more.

Really good maintenance is key to durability as when the right cleaning products are used a wood floor can last a very long time.

Stability

Solid wood floor isn’t considered as stable as engineered due to its seasonal movements, meaning that they are susceptible to expansion and contraction with humidity changes in the home. A small perimeter gap accommodates this movement. Solid wood floor is not generally recommended if underfloor heating is already installed as the heat can cup and warp the boards. It is also not advisable to lay solid wood flooring on concrete, unless a full moisture test has been carried out and it is sealed, as the levels of moisture can also affect the boards.

Engineered wood flooring is more stable and more multi functional then solid wood as it is suitable for laying on underfloor heating, concrete and is compatible with most types of underlay making it a good option for those living in second floor and basement flats.

Installation

Solid wood floor can be stuck down or secret nailed and it is not recommended that they are floated over underlay as the joints are glued down and wouldn’t allow the boards to move with seasonal humidity and moisture.

Engineered wood flooring can be stuck down, nailed and floated. It is versatile but does still require a perimeter gap just to be on the safe side with slight board movements.

More Engineered Wood Flooring Articles

by Virtual Farm Boy

FAQ’s For Solid and Engineered Wood Flooring

What is Solid Wood Flooring?

Solid wood is exactly as it sounds, one piece of wood from top to bottom.

What is the difference between Laminate and Real Wood Floors?

Real Wood floors will age and mature with your property, this means that they will mark and dent more easily than a laminate would but this is part of the character of real wood floors and should not be viewed as a fault of the product. The shade of the wood surface will change with exposure to sunlight. Dependant on the species, it will either lighten or darken with age. The shade variation will only go on to a certain level and then cease. Any unexposed surface areas will eventually catch up with the colour differences once exposed.

Depending on the type of Real Wood floor (solid v’s engineered) it can sanded and re lacquered a number of times to prolong the life of the floor.

What is the difference between Solid Wood Flooring and Engineered Wood Flooring?

Each type of flooring has its specific use and choosing one over the other is dictated by your lifestyle and needs. Solid wood should be in a moisture-controlled environment. Solid wood (strip or plank effect) should be nailed down only and requires a wood sub floor. Solid wood can be glued to a variety of sub floor materials.

Engineered wood flooring consists of a multi-plied, cross-stacked backing with a real wood veneer (top layer of a selected species). Engineered wood flooring can be used on grade, above and below grade.

Engineered wood flooring is more dimensionally stable so it can be installed in areas where solid wood is not compatible due to moisture. Engineered wood (strip or plank effect) can be glued down over various sub floor. Some engineered woods (strip and plank ) can be nailed down which require a wood sub floor. Engineered woods can also be layed as a floating floor where the tongue and groove are glued together, but the floor is not anchored to the sub floor.

What is a “Floating Floor”?

Floating flooring is a flooring system laid down over a layer of underlay. So while the individual planks are glued together, the individual planks are not nailed or glued into the permanent floor. Instead, the planks form a system that “floats” over the layer of underlay. The underlay can be laid down over existing floors.

What is the required distance between the walls and the flooring boards?

When gluing a Real Wood to the subfloor an expansion gap of 15mm towards the walls is sufficient. With floating-floor installations for every metre of installation width the flooring requires a distance to the wall of at least 5mm, lengthwise an expansion gap of 15mm is sufficient.

Can I install the flooring using one pack after the other?

No, for a natural, harmonious looking installation is recommended to work with approximately 5 open packs of flooring and sort/choose the boards individually by colour.

How much wastage do I allow for?

Despite our strict sorting criteria and thorough quality control there may be certain material-specific peculiarities that customers come across during the on-site selection and installation process which may need to be cut out. Generally, we recommend adding 5% to the room’s sqm-total for cutting scrap.

Which kind of Real Wood flooring is right for me?

The range of choices is huge. According to personal taste and character of the room you can choose between different wood types, board sizes, surface finishes (lacquer-finish or oil-impregnation), surface structures (Antique, Distressed, Brushed), impressions (Block or Wideplank) and styles.

Does sunlight have any effects on the flooring?

Yes, any kind of wood will change its colour over time. During this process light-coloured wood types are not necessarily going to get lighter, dark wood types however will get darker. Every wood type has a characteristic aging process of its own and will react in its individual way.

What is the maximum load a Real Wood flooring can bear on a single point?

With very large loads (e.g. pianos, aquariums, storage heaters and the like) we always recommend gluing down as the installation method of choice.

Can Engineered Real Wood flooring that has been installed as a floating floor be sanded and resurfaced?

Yes, but be aware that every sanding process will take off about 1mm of the flooring’s wear-layer. Try not to use very heavy sanding machinery as the big weight of these machines may lead to the creation of “sanding waves”

How do I care for my oil-impregnated Real Wood floors?

Use Wood-Floor Soap for regular maintenance cleaning. Use a vacuum cleaner for lacquer-finished floors and damp-wipe only if needed.

Should your Floating Real Wood Flooring be installed under kitchen appliances?

In the kitchen, you should install the flooring under kitchen appliances, but be very careful when you slide the appliances over the floor. We recommend covering the flooring with something such as a spare rug to protect the flooring when you’re moving the appliances.

Are there methods that make it possible for ALL stains to be removed from Real Wood Floors or is it sometimes impossible for some stains to be removed?

Most stains don’t penetrate more than the sanding will remove. However, if you have a severe water stain, you may not be able to remove it.

How much of an irregularity (drop or rise) can there be in an existing sub floor before installing your Real Wood Flooring?

You can have a drop or rise up to 4mm over 2 linear metres.

Do Real Wood Floors increase home value?

Absolutely. Real Woods floors are recognised as one of the highest quality floors available and would increase the value of your home.

I am installing a Radiant Heat Floor System involving poly water tubing set in gypsum concrete that would be my sub-floor. Can your products be used with this type of floor heating system?

This installation is okay as long as the tubes don’t touch the wood. You also would have to use a laminated underlay vapour barrier between the concrete and the floor.

Can your Real Wood Flooring be installed over Linoleum and be used on stairs?

Real Wood flooring can be installed on the stairs, however it can be slippery.

You can install our floating Real Wood flooring over linoleum if the linoleum remains sound and tightly glued to the original sub floor.

Is there a type of Real Wood Flooring (e.g. Maple v’s Oak) that is more durable or longer lasting than another?

There isn’t much difference between Real Wood flooring wood types. The only negative on oak is it’s a rather porous wood, but it is a very hard durable wood, as are maple and beech. White oak is slightly harder than red oak. Your choice will really come down to aesthetics.

My concrete floor has a few low spots in it and I was wondering what to use to solve this problem?

Most building materials suppliers have a concrete levelling product. We suggest levelling any areas that are more than 3/16″ in variation. Make sure you use the underlay with a DPM before installing over concrete.

Do you have to install your Real Wood Flooring under existing cabinets?

Ideally, the Real Wood flooring would go under the cabinets. You can, however, cut around the cabinets if removing the cabinets would cause undue complications. Keep in mind, though, that if you were ever to change the cabinets, you could have a problem if the new cabinets weren’t the same size as the old cabinets.

Is it possible to install a Real Wood as a floating floor over concrete?

Real Wood floor is designed exactly for this kind of application. It requires an underlay with a DPM over the concrete floor. The floating floor system can go directly over that.

If there were a crack in the concrete, would it cause problems with a Floating Floor installation?

We recommend that any cracks in concrete be filled with concrete filler and sealed prior to installation. If it’s just a hairline crack you can simply cover the crack with duct tape. Keep in mind that underlay with a DPM must be installed prior to laying down the floor.

Important note prior to installation:
Relative Humidity should be maintained a 40-55% prior to installation and throughout the life span of the floor.

15mm expansion gap must be maintained around the perimeter of the floor.

Related Engineered Wood Flooring Articles

by UGArdener

Solid Hardwood Floors v/s Engineered Hardwood Floors

Hardwood flooring in Vancouver is a flourishing industry. Wooden floors add aesthetic beauty to our living spaces and workplaces. It is being extensively used by people with great taste of ethnic flavor and who enjoy adding charm to their property. In different textures and forms, they are being used for different purposes and style.

Among the most in-demand forms of wooden flooring in Vancouver are the Solid Hardwood floors and the Engineered Hardwood Floors. Both the forms are popular in use and have their own sets of advantages and disadvantages over one another.

On one hand, Solid wooden floors are durable and add strength to your flooring. They are cost-effective flooring solution and give you the aesthetic feel of solid wood used for flooring. It is the traditional form of floors made out of wood. It uses the actual solid wood and is used throughout the North America region for its durability. The common forms include maple, oak and birch which are available in different colors and shades. The only and the biggest drawback with this form of wooden flooring is that it gets easily damaged or wears out with time due to moisture and temperature modulations.

On the other hand, there is the advanced form of Engineered Wooden flooring. The engineered wood floor uses the solid wood as the base along with multi-layers of plywood. Its installation is more sophisticated than in any form of flooring. It offers durability and resistance to external damaging factors. In contrast to the solid wooden floors, it offers resistance to external factors like moisture, light and other wear and tear. It is more structurally sound in comparison to solid hardwood and does not lose its luster quickly.

The only reason behind the popularity of engineered floors is due to its resistivity to wear and tear. But solid wooden floor continues to be a favorite too since it is far more economical and durable.

by wallyg

How To Fit Solid Wood Flooring

How to fit Solid Wood flooring

It is important to start any flooring installation by firstly planning out the room and deciding where to start. Many rooms offer what at first appear to be very complicated situations to overcome. Don’t worry too much about these, all situations have a solution which are covered in this section, alternatively further information can be found in the handy hints and tips section.

Planning:-

When first presented with a room or area which is to be fitted with Solid wood flooring some key factors will help you to decide where to start your installation. Door ways, shape of room and locations of main window are all factors to take into consideration as well as the subfloor (existing floor which is to be covered with Solid wood floor) here are some rules and suggestions:-

Rules –

When laying Solid wood flooring on top of existing floor boards always lay the planks at 90 degrees to the floor boards

It is important not to end up with a piece of flooring at the end of a row which is less than 5cm in length or to have the last row less than 5cm in width. To avoid this measure the room’s width and length and divide the results by the dimensions of the flooring being installed. It may then be necessary to start the first row with a half plank or even to cut the width down to accommodate the area

An expansion joint will need to be inserted into any floor area which is larger than 8m in length or in width, in effect creating two floor areas

Acclimatise the boards in the room they are to be laid in for a minimum of 48 hours. The room should have a relative humidity of between 45% – 65% and a temperature of between 18C – 20C

Suggestions –

It is generally accepted that the best visual effect when installing Solid wood flooring is to lay the boards in the direction of the light source; so towards the main window (not forgetting rule 1 above)

It is also suggested that the floor should run along the longest wall of the room giving the best overall effect. (again take note of rule 1 above)

When laying a floor across a door way it is best practise to start at this point and work back into the room

Installation guide:-

Once your planning stage is complete it is time to prepare the room starting with the subfloor. It is vital that the subfloor is in optimal condition to allow the new floor to perform as expected and help to maintain its longevity

Subfloor preparation –

The main factors to consider are the smoothness, dryness and overall levelness of the floor. If the subfloor is uneven then the new floor will not last long as the pressure on the joints will cause the boards to separate

For concrete floors make sure that they are dry (it takes approx. 1 day per 1mm of wet concrete to be considered dry enough for a Solid wood floor to be installed). The relative humidity of the floor is also vital it should not exceed 85%

For wooden subfloors, ensure there is no movement in the floor. Any loose floor boards should be nailed or screwed securely in place. WBP (water and boil proof) ply can be used over existing floorboards to provide a suitable subfloor surface

All floors must be smooth and level

Finally all debris must be cleaned and the surface of the subfloor must be free from dust and other contaminants

Installation Techniques:-

There are three main ways to install a Solid Wood floor,

Secret nailing

Gluing directly to the subfloor

Installing the Solid wood onto a self adhesive underlay

All of these methods are perfectly acceptable methods of installation for a domestic application, each method has its benefits and draw backs. It is often the subfloor which will help to determine which installation is best suitable.

Installing the floor planks – Secret nailing –

Secret nailing a wooden floor is a method usually chosen when the existing subfloor is wood or when installing directly to joists. Solid wood flooring should have a minimum thickness of 21mm if it is to be fitted directly to joists.

It is possible to use the secret nail technique when the subfloor is concrete or screed. A damp proof membrane (DPM) needs to be placed over the concrete followed by an 18 – 24mm WBP plywood sheet.

Start the first row by loose laying the boards parallel to the wall allowing a 15mm expansion gap. Begin by resting the fitting wedges up against the wall to give you a 15mm gap. This is vital as the Solid boards will expand and contract after installation and if this gap is not present the floor will lift and buckle in the room. The wedges are removed after installation is complete and the gap is covered with either skirting or beading

At the end of the first row you will undoubtedly need to cut a board to length. A good way to measure the length of the board required is to rotate the loose board by 180 degree (facing upwards) so that the tongue is facing the tongue of the previous row. Rest the board next to the first row then mark and cut the boards to size.

(NB. When cutting Solid flooring ensure that a new blade is used)

Once you are happy with the alignment, ‘face nail’ the boards into the subfloor at intervals of 250-300mm or onto every joist. Face nailing is nailing through the top of the planks into the subfloor, counter sink the nails and fill in the dimples with wood filler.

Depending on the tools used and the width of the flooring installed, it may be necessary to face nail two or three rows before secret nailing can begin.

Continue laying rows of planks down ensuring that you keep the 15mm expansion gap around the perimeter of the room. Stagger the boards so that the end joint of each row is further than 150mm apart (brick bond)

Keeping the nails at a distance of 250 – 300mm, secret nail the planks into the subfloor. Secret nailing is a method where planks are secured through the tongue of the boards at a 45 degree angle and counter sunk to allow the groove of the next board to fit tightly. Mechanical nail guns are the best way to achieve professional results and make installation a lot easier.

The final row can be measured and marked to size using the following technique; firstly place the board to be marked directly on top of the last row laid. Place another plank on top of the loose plank but this time have the top plank pushed up against 15mm wedges against the wall to give you the correct measurement allowing for expansion. (be careful not to move the board to be marked) now draw a line along the edge of the top plank marking the board underneath.

The last few rows will also have to be face nailed as there will not be enough room for secret nailing.

Installing the floor planks – Direct gluing –

Direct gluing is a suitable method of installation when fixing on top of a concrete or screed subfloor. One benefit is that the overall height of the new floor is kep to a minimum as there is no need to install an 18mm WBP plywood base. It is also suitable over existing wood floors which are suitably flat and firm.

The subfloor must be flat, firm and level; if necessary a levelling compound may be used. It is important to remember that all subfloors must be dry.

A liquid damp proof membrane must be laid first and allowed to dry.

Using a suitable wood flooring adhesive apply an even coat to the subfloor. A notched trowel held at between 450 and 900 is the best method for this.

Start the first row by laying the boards parallel to the wall allowing a 15mm expansion gap. Begin by resting the fitting wedges up against the wall to give you a 15mm gap. This is vital as the Solid boards will expand and contract after installation and if this gap is not present the floor will lift and buckle in the room. The wedges are removed after installation is complete and the gap is covered with either skirting or beading

At the end of the first row you will undoubtedly need to cut a board to length. A good way to measure the length of the board required is to rotate the loose board by 180 degree (facing upwards) so that the tongue is facing the tongue of the previous row. Rest the board next to the first row then mark and cut the boards to size.

(NB. When cutting Solid flooring ensure that a new blade is used)

After two rows have been successfully installed weigh them down while the glue sets. Any glue which has seeped through to the surface should be removed immediately.

Continue laying rows of planks down ensuring that you keep the 15mm expansion gap around the perimeter of the room. Stagger the boards so that the end joint of each row is further than 150mm apart (brick bond)

Tension straps may be used to hold rows tightly together whilst the glue sets.

The final row can be measured and marked to size using the following technique; firstly place the board to be marked directly on top of the last row laid. Place another plank on top of the loose plank but this time have the top plank pushed up against 15mm wedges against the wall to give you the correct measurement allowing for expansion. (be careful not to move the board to be marked) now draw a line along the edge of the top plank marking the board underneath.

Installing the floor planks – Self adhesive underlay –

Solid flooring can also be laid as a floating floor using a self adhesive underlay. The boards are adhered directly to the underlay which holds the floor together. This method can be used for all subfloor types (following the rules set out above that subfloors be flat, firm and dry) the benefits of the self adhesive underlay is that the room can be used immediately with no drying time required for glue to set.

Lay the underlay at 90 degrees to the direction of the boards ensuring that there are no gaps between sheets but equally important is that the underlay does not overlap. When using the underlay over concrete, first lay a DPM with the edges overlapped by 20cm.

Peel back the foil from the underlay by the width of 2 ½ planks and fold over.

Using the supplied spare foil, lay this over the exposed adhesive surface of the underlay with enough surplus foil facing the wall to fold back over the top of the underlay

Place the fitting wedges up against the wall to give you a 15mm gap. This is vital as the Solid boards will expand and contract after installation and if this gap is not present the floor will lift and buckle in the room. The wedges are removed after installation is complete and the gap is covered with either skirting or beading

Position the first row along the wall and wedges allowing for the expansion gap and ensure that this is perfectly straight. (if the first row is not perfectly straight the entire floor will be ruined) At the end of the first row you will undoubtedly need to cut a board to length. A good way to measure the length of the board required is to rotate the loose board by 180 degree (facing upwards) so that the tongue is facing the tongue of the previous row. Rest the board next to the first row then mark and cut the boards to size

(NB. When cutting Solid flooring ensure that a new blade is used)

Now lay a second row, this will help to stabilise the two rows whilst the foil is removed as well as help to provide a straight line

Once you are satisfied the rows are straight and tightly fitted, peel back the loose foil sheet which will expose the adhesive underlay to the solid wood flooring thus holding the boars in place.

The loose foil may now be discarded. The remaining attached foil will be your work area where new rows will be rested on until you are happy that they are tightly fitted.

Continue to fit the rows down and peel away the foil to fix the boards into place.

The final row can be measured and marked to size using the following technique; firstly place the board to be marked directly on top of the last row laid. Place another plank on top of the loose plank but this time have the top plank pushed up against 15mm wedges against the wall to give you the correct measurement allowing for expansion. (be careful not to move the board to be marked) now draw a line along the edge of the top plank marking the board underneath.

Obstacles –

There are various obstacles you will come across when installing any flooring. The trick is to identify these at the beginning and plan when to tackle them. You do not want to end up at an obstacle where you may need to remove some flooring you have already installed to enable you to deal with the situation.

Door frames are inevitable as almost all rooms will have these. It is necessary to remove a section of architrave and door jam to allow the Solid to be fitted under them, thus hiding the expansion gap away from sight. To do this you will need to place a piece of underlay and an upturned board against the door frame. Using a long saw pressed against the Solid floor begin to cut into the door frame. Make your cut until you reach the wall behind the door frame. Do not worry about cutting into the skirting as the beading will cover this. Remove as much of the door frame as possible so as to allow the right expansion room for the Engineered.

Measure and mark the Solid to fit and then install. When faced with a room where there are doors on both sides of a room and the Solid is installed across the door way it may be necessary to use glue to fit a board at one of these doors. As it is impossible to install the board at 30 degrees and still slide it under the architrave you will need to remove some of the locking joint on the previous row.

Remove the lip along the tongue of the long edge using a sharp chisel. Apply glue to this edge. Slide the board to be fitted under the door architrave and then pull it back into place along the previous row.

Radiator pipe covers can either protrude through the floor or from the wall. If they are floor mounted then the Solid will need to be cut around the pipes with an expansion gap. Measure and mark the position of the pipes on the Solid board and cut the holes out using a 32mm spade drill bit. This should allow for the 15mm pipe and an expansion gap. Then remove the excess Solid to allow the board to be placed against the pipes. The area of Solid removed should represent a keyhole shape. Keep the off cuts of the Solid as these can be glued back into place once the plank is installed.

More Solid Wood Flooring Articles

by UGArdener

How to Fit Solid Wooden Flooring Step by Step

Installation preparations: 1.1 Acclimatization of the panels; before starting the installation the flooring has to be brought into the room where it will be installed or in a room with the same climate condition. The acclimatisation will be carried out as following: in sealed unopened boxes for a time period of at least 7 days flat lying with at least 50 cm distance to the walls at a room temperature of at least 18°C at a floor surface temperature of a minimum of 15°C at a relative humidity between 40% and 65%

1.2 Installation direction; Solid flooring looks its best when the solid wood flooring panels are installed parallel to the light coming in through the windows. The only required installation direction is if you install solid flooring over hardwood flooring boards. In this case you have to install the solid flooring at a 90degree angle to the existing hardwood flooring boards or apply a hard board or ply board sub floor.

1.3 Planning the first row; after determining the best layout of the flooring and the starting wall, measure the width of the room and divide it by the width of the solid flooring panels to determine the number of rows and the width of the last row. If the last row is determined to be less than 60mm wide, it should be adjusted by cutting the first row lengthwise.

1.4 Planning of expansion gaps; since solid wood flooring is made of organic materials, it is subject to certain movement behaviours (shrinkage/expansion) due to changes in climate conditions. It is necessary to leave gaps of 15mm for the expansion in all parts of the structure i.e. walls, doorframes, stairs, around pipes.

1.5 Planning of transition mouldings; through the shrinkage and expansion behaviour of solid flooring you have to install transition mouldings in the following areas: at all door throughways at all passageways single room length and/or with more than 10 m (33 ft)

The Installation

Check all panels for possible damages/defects. Ensure you understand the difference between the tongue and the groove on the panel. Begin installing the first row from the left-hand corner of the room with both tongue sides of the panels pointing towards the wall. Place spacers between the flooring and the wall to provide the correct space for expansion.

1.1. Glue down – recommendation

1.1.2 Nail down – recommendation

Timber battens, ply board, particleboard sub floor constructions, any wooden surface should be kiln dried at the maximum moisture content of 12-14%. They should be placed at 400mm intervals. Heavy loads such as pianos are place in areas where this is reducing to 300mm. Lay the first row of boards 15mm from the longest, straightest wall. The boards must follow the contours of the wall. It the wall is not straight you must scribe in the first and last row. Place spacers between the edge of the flooring panels and the wall to provide the correct space for expansion. Face nail the first and last row nearest the wall 15mm into the board at 200mm intervals. Secret nail every board (including first row) with a portonailer at 45degrees through the tongue 200mm – 400mm intervals. Start all subsequent rows with the off cut piece from the previous row. Always make sure the off cut to start a new row is at least 400mm long, if not then cut another piece which is

greater than 400mm long.

Attention! Ensure all the short ends are staggered at least 400 mm. It is vital to maintain a minimum of 400mm between the ends of boards in the adjacent rows (staggered).

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